Thursday, March 29, 2012

April 26: Back to the High country

Morning birding at Kelani Valley Forest Reserve. which is a lowland tropical rainforest rich in endemic fauna and flora. The Kelani Valley Forest Reserve is ideal for any missed lowland endemics such as Sri Lanka Myna, Green-billed Coucal, Spot-winged Thrush, Sri Lanka Blue Magpie, Sri Lanka Spurfowl, Brown-capped Babbler and Red-faced Malkoha. Afternoon, leave for Chaaya Citadel, Kandy for two nights. 

We revised our schedule a bit so that we revisited the place near the nick again.  Before departing on that we got excellent views of a flock of Sri Lankan Grey Hornbills around the Guest House.  On getting to the police station area we again failed to find the Owlet. 

So back to the Guest House to try for the Serendib Scops Owl in the rain forest fragment on the opposite side of the river.  This involved a ride in a dugout Canoe,
 in which Hettie – like most Sri Lankans that we saw – stood up while I at least squatted down to get better balance and Rob took photos.  We then did a very brisk walk, pausing only to look at another Green Forest lizard
and some Mimosa flowers (plus play a little with their sensitive leaves)
then on up through a picturesque village
and into the rain forest.
 After a very pleasant walk we came to a stream which was flowing a lot more strongly than usually encountered, due to the recent rains.  Frances and Carol decided to wait while Hettie Rob and myself got our feet wet.  After a few more metres we came to a paddy field and observed some hawk eagles but nothing else.  Hettie looked under a little farmers shelter into the forest (after checking the shelter for snakes) but no owl,  so along the edge of the field and back into the rainforest on a track.  After about 2 minutes Hettie decided that we should return but he would dive into the forest on a very narrow track to do one more playback.  We were to wait in the shelter.

As he disappeared Rob said “Should we have asked him to leave the car keys?”.  We heard a bit of playback and shortly after Hettie emerged moving reasonably swiftly but not looking overjoyed so we guessed the owl was AWOL.  His first words were “I have been bitten by a snake.”.  The immediate question from us was “Is it poisonous?” to which the unwished-for positive answer, was given.

Hettie was firm that despite Australian practise he would walk back – probably good as he is a big lad and we couldn't carry him - so set off using his mobile phone.  (NOTE to TELSTRA and OPTUS:  the mobile phone got coverage in a bloody jungle some distance from a village, let alone a Provincial capital: why can't you do the same?)  The idea seemed to be to take some analgesics; wash the wound; apply some leaves; and get to hospital asap.  As he was allergic to aspirin it was good that Frances had some paracetamol.  By the time we got across the river his brother had contacted the Guest House and he was met by 8 concerned staff and taken off to hospital. 

The manager assured us that the species was not very venomous and that if your time was managed well “you'll be in Heaven.”  I said something to the effect that Heaven was not where we wanted him to be, and after a pause the manager understood my joke and roared with laughter.  The next step was Hettie calling the manager to say that he would be in the hospital for 4 hours but Jetwing were sending another chauffeur as he might not be able to drive.

We basically hung out in the Guest House.  This was aided by having a beer (surprisingly they still had some) and taking a few images.  Some of them are in the Birds page and here are a few others.

The red stems on some palms were attractive.
 A red stain on my shirt was less so: here is the culprit (one of two)
 A view from further back
This White-throated Kingfisher gave a beetle a thorough hammering on the railings before finally swallowing it.  (By this stage we were feeling a tad hammered ourselves.)
After a few hours Hettie rang again to say he was being kept in for 12 hours, the new driver would be with us in 20 minutes and another guide would join us in the morning.  He hoped to join up before we left the country.

So the new driver Bundulu arrived, we loaded up the kit and took off.  Giving due credit, the staff of the Guest House had been very considerate, both to Hettie and ourselves - although we were hours late checking out they made no fuss and produced a cellphone whenever Hettie rang.

Bundulu was not a slow driver like Hettie (he wasn't paid to look for birds we passed etc, but to get clients from Point A to somewhere else, such as Point B) but didn't do daft things.  As we left Kitulgala I noticed a sign on the road pointing to the site where the Bridge on the River Kwai was filmed, but in the circumstances didn't request a stop!

We dodged some potential points of congestion such as a rainy village market
and our first Sri Lankan accident scene where a ute and a bus appeared to have had a misunderstanding.  As there where a few cops on the scene, and we crossed a few ambulances headed to the scene, it may have been nasty.

Gampola Railway Station was straight out of the Raj and/or Bollywood! We got to Kandy in 90 minutes rather than 150 and checked into the Citadel.  Very, very plush and an excellent view across the river.
The place was well endowed with tour groups, some of whom were very noisy.  When we went down for tea there was music from the bar echoing up and competing with the foul musak in the restaurant.  The food however was good.

Bird of the day:  Grey Hornbill
Other vertebrate of the day:  Palm squirrel (the most obvious candidate was seen by none of us)
Pattern of the day:  Elephant designs
Bad taste of the day:  Quebecois tourists  who let their brats sit on the counter of the food service area.

Big Positive  of the day:  Behaviour of the Guest House staff and Jetwing office folk to get us out of the doo-doo!

Addendum from the future: I was at a COG Meeting in mid-June and chatted with another member who visited Sri Lanka a couple of years ago.  They used the Bird and Wildlife mob and it seemed a very intense trip.  They got all the endemics, including the Serendib Scops Owl  This was at Kithulgala and in the jungle, so only 2 people were allowed in to look at once.  Thus I suspect it was the infamous area behind the small hut. One couple went to look from a different angle and were startled - at least - to find a cobra dangling off a branch about a foot from their faces!

Read on

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